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By Fish-Keeping Tips, October 22, 2009 8:46 am

There are a so many different types of tanks available, and with the amount of choices available along with the fact that there is no promised method for success for making a saltwater aquarium. It may be very difficult for people to select which type of aquarium that they should purchase, however there’s a number of things that should be considered before the ‘amateur’ biologist ever goes inside a pet outlet.

The first is size and as odd as it might sound an aquarium is a conclusive instance of a time when size matters. The size of your tank must be adequate to keep the types and the number of fish which the owner intends to put within. Just like you would never try to put a big goldfish inside a small bowl neither should you try to put a large saltwater fish in a tiny fish tank. That’s particularly true if you’re trying to put in a small carnivore, such as one of the tinier types of shark, to the home. Such predators require area to swim or they will gradually go insane and maybe actually perish as a result of the the captivity (a tad melodramatic and Victorian, though true nevertheless).

There’s many options for size in the area of aquariums, and a decent pet snore would be able to help advise consumers as to what size would better meet their needs.

Another consideration is the material: glass and acrylic are the 2 options that are widely available on the market right now and every one features its very own advantages and disadvantages. Glass of course the most liked among the two due to the fact that it is less liable to become scratched, permitting the sides in order to keep their clarity. It is also considerably cheaper, an essential consideration as it can cost a great deal of cash to create a saltwater aquarium and each and every benefit should be used. Finally, the nature of the silicone sealant used within glass fish tanks permits your tank to expand more readily was water is added.

Acrylic tanks come with their own advantages, as there is nearly no limitation to the shape or the size which an acrylic tank will be, permitting for a larger volume of creativity in the tank design. It is also considerably more durable than glass, an essential consideration if the aquarium is going to be displayed in a public place or if the owner of the tank has small kids. When a tiny bump might become damaged a glass tank, acrylic fish tanks are built of sturdier material. It’s additionally simpler to modify the filtration choices for an acrylic tank, because it’s unnecessary to keep the amount of specialized tools around which are needed to cut the glass.

No matter if acrylic or glass, the potential saltwater aquarium proprietor would probably have the choice to purchase a pre-drilled tank to prevent overflow. This gives the tank a much sleeker aesthetic than that old though ever popular “hang on the back” technique.

Purchasing an aquarium can be a tricky business – however, the truth of the matter is that when the ecosystem is properly made and the tank washed completely before use there’s no incorrect option. It is all a matter of personal preference.

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By Fish-Keeping Tips, October 14, 2009 2:06 am

Names for this fish are:
amberjack, jack, amberfish, jack hammer, horseeye bonito, horse-eye jack, Allied kingfish (Australia); French: poisson limon, sériole couronnée; Hawaiian: kahala; Japanese: kanpachi;
Spanish: coronado, pez de limón, serviola.

Amberjack is the largest of the jacks, the most important amberjack to anglers, and, like most of its brethren, a strong fighter. It is high on the list of tropical marine fish suspected of causing ciguatera poisoning, although this problem may be isolated to certain areas.

Averaging roughly 15 pounds in weight and commonly ranging up to 40 pounds, the greater amberjack often weighs more than 50 pounds and has been reported to exceed 170 pounds. The all-tackle record is 155 pounds, 10 ounces. It can reach a length of more than 5 feet.

This fish is greenish-blue to almost purple or brown above the lateral line and silver below the lateral line. A dark olive-brown diagonal stripe extends from the mouth across both eyes to about the first dorsal fin. A broad amber stripe runs horizontally along the sides. The fins may also have a yellow cast. The greater amberjack has short foredorsal fins, a bluntly
pointed head, and no detached finlets. The amber stripe sometimes causes anglers to confuse the greater amberjack with the yellowtail, but it can be distinguished by the 11 to 16 developed gill rakers on the lower limb of the first branchial arch; the yellowtail has 21 to 28 gill rakers.

The greater amberjack often occurs in schools, but it is not primarily a schooling fish and occasionally remains solitary. Migrations appear to be linked to spawning behavior, which in the Atlantic occurs from March through June. Evidence suggests that spawning may occur in offshore oceanic waters, but few studies have been conducted, although spawning fish are known to congregate over reefs and wrecks. Food and feeding habits. Greater amberjack feed on fish, crabs, and squid.

In North America greater amberjack occur off Hawaii, off the coasts of Florida, and in nearby Caribbean waters. Amberjack in some waters are resident fish, but others
are migratory coastal pelagic fish that swim with the current edges and eddies.

Greater amberjack are found mostly in offshore waters, as well as around offshore reefs, wrecks, buoys, oil rigs, and the like. They can be caught anywhere in the water column, to depths of several hundred feet, but they are mostly associated with near-bottom structure in the 60- to 240-foot range.

There is also the lesser amberjack. Lesser amberjack is the smallest amberjack, seldom encountered by, and relatively unknown to, anglers.
The lesser amberjack has an olive-green or brownish back above the lateral line and is silver below the lateral line. A dark olive-brown diagonal stripe extends from the mouth across both eyes to about the first dorsal fin. It is very similar in appearance to the greater amberjack but has a deeper body profile, proportionately
larger eyes, and eight spines in the first dorsal fin.

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By Fish-Keeping Tips, October 6, 2009 9:40 pm

Match-Making
To make your fish tank a stunning swirl of color and activity, you will want to add a variety of tropical freshwater fish. All fish have different fin designs, patterns, colors, shapes, sizes, temperaments and ideal living conditions. For the welfare of fish and therefore the success of fish tank aquariums, it is essential that you research the fish you would like, to know which ones can live together in health and harmony. For example, you cannot match (i.e. without stressing or harming your fish) peaceful and aggressive fish, ones that like cooler water and ones that need higher temperatures etc. Common sense stuff!

Space Out Your Fish
A good idea is to select fish that occupy different levels in tank aquariums so they don’t need to compete for space. This adds a good amount of activity and variety, enhancing the appeal of your fish tank aquarium.

Top-Dwelling Fish
Top-dwelling fish generally have upturned mouths for feeding at the water’s surface. Danios are active and hardy with a long lifespan making them ideal especially for beginning aquarists. One of the most popular tropical freshwater fish is the Betta, an easy to look after, peaceful fish with striking fins and a remarkable variety of color. Hatchetfish are unusual but are moderately difficult to manage and are strong jumpers, so you need to replace the lid of your aquarium immediately after feeding and maintenance.

Middle-Dwelling Fish
Middle-dwelling fish could be most striking and be stocked with a mixture of schooling fish and larger colorful fish. Schooling fish are obviously happiest when they are among their own kind and you need to have around six. Examples of schooling fish include Rainbow fish and Tetras. Rainbow fish are simple to take care of and their amazing iridescent colorations change when light reflects off these fish. Neon Tetras choose to swim or remain suspended in schools to create a breathtaking display of color. All types of Guppies and Platies are excellent for middle-dwelling fish. They are both easy care fish and come in many bright color variations which add excitement and brilliance to fish tank aquariums. For something slightly larger, Swordtails are easy to look after and have wonderfully diverse fin and color varieties. Mollies add drama and contrast to any aquarium but require a moderate level of care. The following small Gouramis are of a peaceful temperament and easy to look after: Neon Blue Dwarf, Sparkling Gourami and Dwarf Gouramis. Angels are a dazzling fish to include in your aquarium but be mindful they are semi-aggressive and growing to 6 inches they also require at least a 30 gallon tank. For a larger tank (50 gallons), Cichlids are an option but many can show signs of aggression. Examples of peaceful ones are Acei Cichlid, Albino Kribensis Cichlid and Brichardi Cichlid. Of course, the Goldfish remains the most popular freshwater fish and comes in many varieties with amazing color patterns and features.

Bottom-Dwelling Fish
Bottom-dwelling fish have down-turned mouths, enabling them to feed on food that falls to the bottom of the aquarium, thereby keeping the substrate clean. Cory Cats are entertaining, energetic and peaceful scavengers. They remain relatively small and survive in a wide range of water conditions. For larger fish tank aquariums (30-50 gallons), Loaches will add color, interest and beauty to your fish tank aquarium. They are active bottom dwelling scavengers ideally suited for the community aquarium.

All Peaceful or All Aggressive
You will have noticed that I mainly refer to peaceful fish. These community fish can co-exist peacefully with members of their own species and other species of similar size. Being the kind of person who likes to ‘keep the peace’ I prefer easy-going fish for an easy life but if you like a bit more action, by all means pick aggressive fish. Just remember to keep all the fish species in your fish tank aquarium aggressive so no one gets bullied! Aggressive fish are aggressive toward their own species and/or other species, regardless of their size.

Fish Tank Sizes
Most of the fish mentioned are ideal for smaller tank aquariums. Bettas, Danios, Gouramis, Platies and Tetras measure around two inches and are good for the smaller 10 gallon tanks. Though small, Guppies thrive best in at least a 20 gallon tank along with Hatchetfish, while the larger Swordtails, Rainbow Fish, Goldfish, Mollies, Angels and Cory Cats will require a minimum of a 30 gallon tank. Loaches and Cichlids normally require a 50 gallon tank.

Do Your Homework!
These tropical freshwater fish are only a guide to varieties of fish which would be suitable in tropical freshwater aquariums. It is fundamental that you research the fish including size, temperament, the tending they require in order to grow and breed, the food they eat, and the water parameters in which each individual type of fish is the most comfortable with. This will be vital in determining the species of fish that can be suitably matched.

Copyright © 2009 Jill Kaestner @ Kaestner Marketing LLC

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By Fish-Keeping Tips, October 1, 2009 1:00 am

The Nitrogen Cycle Explained
The Nitrogen Cycle is simply a method of starting an aquarium. Learning what it is, and how to deal with critical periods during the nitrogen cycle, will determine the success of your fish tank aquariums. All new tank aquariums go through a process of establishing beneficial bacterial colonies in the aquarium and in the filter media which get rid of waste and thereby maintain a healthy environment. These bacteria convert ammonia –> nitrite –>nitrate. This natural process takes between 2-8 weeks, depending on the volume of the tank.

The First Stage – Ammonia
The faeces and urine of fish in addition to uneaten food are quickly broken down into either ammonium (water pH below 7) or ammonia (water pH above 7). Ammonium is not harmful to fish but ammonia is. In nature, the amount of water per fish is tremendously high, and waste products become diluted to low concentrations. In the stagnant and restricted quantity of water in fish tank aquariums, however, it can take as little as a few hours for ammonia concentrations to reach lethal levels. Once a test kit is able to detect ammonia there is too much! Ammonia burns the gills of the fish and starves the water of oxygen. Fortunately bacteria that are capable of converting wastes to safer by-products begin growing in the tank. This takes time and requires careful monitoring and patience.

The Second Stage – Nitrites
In the next stage of the nitrogen cycle, Nitrosomonas bacteria grow which oxidize the ammonia and eliminate it. On the other hand, the by-product of ammonia oxidation is nitrite, which is also very toxic to fish, damaging the central nervous system. Using a test kit, you should be able to see the nitrite levels rise around the end of the first or second week.

The Third Stage – Nitrates
In the last stage, Nitrospira bacteria start growing that use nitrite and convert it into nitrate, which is not toxic to fish in small quantities. (Nitrobacter bacteria were previously believed to convert nitrites to nitrates but latest research has shown they are not present in detectable levels in established tank aquariums, while Nitrospira are profuse.)

Test, Test, Test!
It is essential to purchase appropriate test kits to determine the levels of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates throughout the cycle. You should test the aquarium water every other day and write down your readings. You will know when the nitrogen cycle has finished by reading the levels of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate in the water. When the first two readings hit 0 and the nitrate reading levels are around 10, your tank is ready for fish. Be careful though, to only put in a couple at a time, or else the readings will start climbing again with the increased bio-load.

Ways to Initiate the Nitrogen Cycle

Using Fish
The former method is to select a couple of small, hardy fish such as Zebra Danios. This is not the ideal way to get the nitrogen cycle on track because the fish are being exposed to ammonia and nitrites causing them stress and even disease and death. It is important to keep testing the water and vigilantly observing the fish. If at any time fish exhibit signs of distress such as rapid breathing, clamped fins, erratic swimming or hanging at the surface for air, do an immediate 50% water change. Do not over-feed the fish and do not add more fish until the cycle is finished.

Not Using Fish
The fishless cycle is a very good method to start fish tank aquariums, and involves no potential risk to fish, as they are not used. The production of ammonia can be achieved by dropping fish food into the tank every 12 hours or by leaving a small piece of raw fish in the fish tank. As either decomposes it will release ammonia.
Alternatively, the same effect can be achieved by adding chemical forms of ammonia manually. The water chemistry needs to be monitored closely in order to add the proper amount of ammonia on a day-to-day basis into the aquarium. It is suggested to start with 5 drops of ammonia per 10 gallons of aquarium water and then reduce this to 3 drops once you can detect nitrites. If you had to use more drops than 5 to get an ammonia reading, then cut the number of drops in half when you get nitrite readings. Continue this process daily until you get nitrate readings with your test kit. After a 30% water change the tank should be ready to start slowly adding fish.

Speeding Up the Nitrogen Cycle
To speed along the process of cycling tank aquariums some beneficial bacteria colonies can be obtained from an already established and cycled aquarium and placed in the new tank. This can be obtained by putting gravel from an established aquarium into the new tank or filling the new aquarium with water from an established aquarium.
Since the largest bacterial populations are found in the filter, a more effective way is to borrow an spare filter from an established tank and run it in the new tank for a few days, or to place used filter media into the new filter. This will seed the tank with all the essential bacteria for the nitrogen cycle.
More recently, there are products on the market which several aquarists have found helpful in introducing the beneficial bacteria e.g. Bio-Spira, Colonize, Cycle, Stability and Septo-Bac.

Keep Nitrates Low
Once freshwater aquariums are established, they can still go through periods during which the bacterial colonies change. Established fish tank aquariums should be tested for nitrates every few months to make certain that levels are not becoming precariously high. The quickest way to rid tank aquariums of nitrates is to perform partial water changes. A 25% weekly water change is a general recommendation.

Keep the Good Bacteria Growing!
It is important to note the following advice so that you continue to cultivate the growth of beneficial bacteria.
Never add chlorinated water directly to tropical freshwater aquariums as the chlorine in tap water will exterminate the beneficial bacteria instantly resulting in an explosion of ammonia and nitrites; that means you will have to commence all over again! Allow water to remain in a container with an aerator for some time before adding to the aquarium.
Another common problem is that people over clean their tanks during partial water changes and maintenance. Never rinse the filter media with regular tap water if it becomes clogged. Instead, rinse the filter media in tank water.
Only add new fish one pair at a time to an aquarium as the load from too many fish overwhelms the bacteria colony’s ability to deal with it. Also do not over-feed fish as the bacteria might not be able to take the extra load of excrement.
If you are treating fish for disease, treat them with antibiotics in a bucket of water. Adding antibiotics to the aquarium kills all the beneficial bacteria.

You Can Do It!
When you have a grasp of how the nitrogen cycle works and the steps to take, you will be successful in dealing with the challenges it presents and establishing the attractive tank aquariums you desire.

Copyright © 2009 Jill Kaestner @ Kaestner Marketing LLC